Many clients ask me, "What is the big deal about anti-oxidants? Why do I need them? What do the do for my skin?"
Here is the low down on anti-oxidants and why they are so very important to maintaining healthy youthful smooth skin.
They work to combat the ‘free radical cells’ that damage your skin. In addition, they promote stimulation of new collagen growth.
WHAT ARE FREE RADICALS?
Free radicals are created when oxygen produces by-products during normal cellular metabolism. More accurately, this reactive oxygen ‘steals’ electrons from proteins, DNA and cell membranes, damaging tissue. If left unchecked, free radicals may cause heart damage, cancer, cataracts, and a weak immune system. Free radicals may be involved with aging of tissue; and coupled with sun damage, could promote skin cancers.
Free radicals are produced by normal human metabolism, and they can be increased by smoking, drinking alcohol, exposure to heavy metals, and radiation. Anti-oxidants counteract this process by binding to the free radicals, transforming them into non-damaging compounds, or repairing cellular damage. It would seem logical, then, to include antioxidants in your daily skin care regime.
To the rescue!
Antioxidants are the antidote to free radicals. They can be taken orally or applied directly to the skin. We recommend both a nutritional supplement high in anti-oxidants and daily application of an anti-oxidant serum or cream that is easily absorbed in the skin. Most Vitamin C serums and creams are generally not stable alone and are not as effective as an anti-oxidant topical that is a combination of Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Vitamin K.
What are antioxidants?
In order for antioxidants to have any benefit they have to be in sufficient quantities in the tissue. Common anti-oxidants that are taken orally, or eaten, are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Selenium and the carotenoids, (fruits and vegetables having the most deeply or brightly-colored fruits and vegetables, i.e.: spinach, carrots, red bell peppers, tomatoes).
Eating a diet high in anti-oxidants is not enough for good skin care,preventing photo-damage, and stimulating collagen growth.
What are topical antioxidants?
Topical antioxidants may reduce UVA damage. UVA is the wavelength that mostly produces visible signs of sun damage and has some carcinogenic effect.
Topical antioxidants that have been studied in creams or ointments are Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Glutathione, Lipoic Acid, Coenzyme Q10, Soy- isoflavanone, and Vitamin K. It has been shown that combining some of these have additional benefit.
Which are the antioxidants?
Antioxidants can be divided into those that are fat soluble and those that are water soluble.
Fat soluble:
- Vitamin E, Co-enzyme Q10 and Lipoic acid
Water soluble:
- Glutathione and Vitamin C
Vitamin E:
- The antioxidant effect can be more effective if combined with other antioxidants i.e.: Co-enzyme Q10 and Vitamin C
- Is found in fresh vegetables, oils, seeds, nuts, cumin, and soy. Animal studies have shown that Vitamin E protects against UVB damage, although this effect has not been proved in humans. (UVB is much more carcinogenic than UVA, and causes sunburns).
- Commonly used to help wound healing. However, studies in human burns did not show Vitamin E helping and about a 1/5 of patients reacted to vitamin E with a contact dermatitis).
- Topical Vitamin E is commonly used by pregnant women in the belief that it prevents stretch marks. There is no evidence for this, and sometimes an acute allergic dermatitis is produced causing an inflamed uncomfortable rash.
Co-enzyme Q10 (also known as Ubiquinone)
- Found in fish and shell fish
- It penetrates well into skin, and is claimed to reduce the breakdown of collagen after exposure to UVA light
- It may reduce the depth of wrinkles
Lipoic Acid
- This is well absorbed into the skin, and converted quickly into dihydrolipoic acid in the cells. It has an anti-inflammatory effect. A three per cent application of Lipoid Acid has been shown to reduce redness in the skin after UVB exposure.
Glutathione
- This antioxidant is produced by amino acids, eysteine, glycine and glutamic acid
Vitamin C
- Also known as Ascorbic Acid
- Oral Vitamin C improves wound healing and may enhance the immune system
- The lack of Vitamin C produces scurvy, which produces fragile skin and bleeding gums
Topical Vitamin C
- Reduces sun damage, fine wrinkles, and may lighten dark skin pigmentation
- It is widely used topically and believed to assist in the stimulation of collagen
Green Tea (tea polyphenols)
When used topically as a cream:
- Has shown to reduce the carcinogenic effect of certain chemicals and ultraviolet rays on the skin of animals. We are still awaiting good evidence for benefit in humans
- Produces anti-inflammatory effects
- Reduces the redness caused by UV light
DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone)
- Occurs naturally in our bodies
- When taken orally, DHEA is a powerful antioxidant that may have an anti-aging effect and help thicken skin and reduce pigmentation
- It is not know if there are any long-term negative effects from oral injection
Soy-isoflavones
- When used topically it may increase collagen and decrease redness and damage from ultraviolet rays
We recommend the following topical anti-oxidant products and find them to be highly effective and well tolerated by our clients:
- Queen Bee Organic Daily Vitamin Serum
- Neocutis PREVdem
- Sesvalia C-Vit Intensive Serum
It is not too soon to start using anti-oxidants! Many clients ask me, do I need to worry about using anti-oxidants if I am still in my 20's, or my 30's? Yes, you need to start using them! Early intervention in preventing the effects of aging, and photo-damage is key to maintaining youthful healthy skin as we age.
Is it too late to start using anti-oxidants if I already have signs of aging, photo-damage, fine lines, wrinkles, and lax skin? No! Start today!
If you have questions or want to come in for a free personalized skin care consultation - give us a call at Refresh Laser Spa.
